Next Post Coming Soon…▶

By Krieger

My preparation centers on addressing the worst situation possible and then working backwards towards a less hostile, less unforgiving situation. The worst situation that I can fathom would be an TEOTWAWKI, no power, minimal-to-no logistics, food or water, and exacerbated by the presence of a hostile occupying force.

In an extreme situation like that, the equipment and weapons I select are based on the ability to accomplish their tasks with minimal extraneous (needless) additions. They are as light as possible in order to reduce the expenditure of hard to replace calories. They’re durable, have interoperability across platforms, and a higher-than-normal likelihood of replacement parts or existence in storage.

An example of this applied selection criteria would be the following: The calibers I select are the most commonly found calibers in America: 9mm, 5.56mm, and 7.62 x 51mm.

If I were to apply this same thought process to AR magazines I would start with the following (non-exhaustive) criteria:

1. Durability
2. Space consumption
3. Procurability

There are several very good AR magazines out there. One of the points I like about the plastic magazines is that they provide the ability to observe the number of rounds that one still has in the magazine. That can be a huge advantage.

What allows this visualization — the composite and clear plastic that allows the rounds to be seen — can also be a huge disadvantage. This is this same plastic that in a cold environment can possibly become brittle and crack. Or, if it’s placed on a hot piece of equipment, it could melt thus rendering the magazine inoperable.

Of the two polymer magazines pictured above, the translucent magazine has a metal liner. It’s there as the contact surface between the magazine and the rifle and is the location where heat and wear and tear have the most negative effect on the magazine.

While this is an important advantage over the other polymer design, the rest of the magazine is still plastic and is, therefore, still susceptible to damage from the heat of equipment or other weapons.

Also pictured above are two versions of aluminum GI magazines. The tan magazine has a light blue anti-tilt follower. As I have been informed (I have not verified this) the blue follower’s purpose is to provide the user with the ability to easily and quickly recognize that the magazine is empty when the bolt is locked back, as well as preventing weapons malfunctions.

The “gun-metal” grey metal magazine is a standard aluminum magazine with no frills and no anti-tilt follower. I have used many “old-school” magazines without anti-tilt followers. Rarely have they malfunctioned.

Is an anti-tilt follower a great addition to a magazine? Certainly. I’ve not had enough negative occurrences to make it mandatory in my selection.

Regarding aluminum mags in general, I have found that they are extremely durable. Are they damaged and at times rendered inoperable? Yes, they certainly are. But these maladies would most likely have happened with any type of magazine.

Certainly, one does not have to be concerned with an aluminum magazine being damaged by the heat of another piece of equipment or having it come in contact with a hot barrel of another weapon. That’s very important in my selection process.

For durability, the aluminum GI magazine wins hands down.


The consumption of space is a very important consideration. When envisioning overland movement (vehicular or dismounted) every single ounce and every single inch makes a difference.

The size of the military issue aluminum magazine is the gold standard for me. It’s hard for me to consider utilizing a plastic, or even a steel magazine that carries the same 30 rounds as the standard magazine, but whose size, when compared to the STANAG magazine, should allow it to carry 30+ rounds.

In essence, if the magazine being offered for use is bigger than the STANAG magazine, but only carries the same number of rounds as a STANAG magazine…why would I choose it? I’m not really gaining anything.

Both of the plastic magazines are larger than the STANAG magazine. Again, for the same number of rounds carried, the plastic magazines take up more room.

The STANAG mags are symmetrical in size throughout the length of the magazine. They’re neither wider nor narrower at any single sustained point of the magazine. This makes the STANAG magazines extremely easy to carry and or pack.

The AR magazine carriers on my gunbelt each carry two STANAG magazines each. Due to the larger size and asymmetrical port-to-base dimensions, the same magazine carriers don’t have the ability to carry two plastic magazines.

With regards to space consumption, the STANAG magazine wins again…hands down.

Depending on where you buy, plastic magazines range from $12 to $17 a piece…ish.

STANAG magazines
STANAG 30-round magazines can always be found at around $10 to $12, less when bought in bulk.

All of these prices seem inexpensive to me.

I usually acquire my magazines in bulk when they’re on sale at a brick and mortar store. They’re usually discounted to $11.00 for the older styled gun metal grey without the anti-tilt follower.

Point of this is, STANAG magazines are generally less, sometimes far less expensive than polymer magazines. That means I can buy more of them. Or pay the same amount and lave money left over for for more ammunition.


When considering using plastic magazines versus STANAG magazines, I find it hard to justify:

Using plastic magazines that can be more easily damaged

Losing carrying and packing space by choosing larger, asymmetrical plastic mags

For my TEOTWAWKI selection I choose STANAG mags. I make no extra effort to acquire anti-tilt over regular magazines. My choice is based on acquiring the maximum number of magazines possible.

My planning process is based on first addressing a TEOTWAWKI situation. While plastic-based magazines have served well in combat, for me and in a TEOTWAWKI situation, the STANAG magazines fit my criteria better than plastic based magazines.

Krieger is an instructor with Hybrid Tactics Security. Hybrid Tactics is dedicated to providing its customers with the highest level of security available, whether that comes in the form of personal protective details, shooting courses or cybersecurity awareness and training.

Next Post Coming Soon…▶

This content was originally published here.

(Natural News)
You will probably need different tools and devices that require fuel to function after disaster strikes. Your bug-out car will also require fuel, so stock up on it now before SHTF. (h/t to

Since you’ll be stocking up on fuel, you need to learn how to properly store and rotate your fuel supply. While stocking up on only one kind of fuel seems like the most efficient and easiest way to keep track of your supply, you may need two or more kinds of fuel if you’re using multiple cars or tools that require different types of fuel.

Diversification can also help prevent loss of capability, which is crucial when SHTF. Different liquid fuels have different characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.

Generally, there is no such thing as the best kind of fuel. Even the most advantageous fuel comes with trade-offs, which you need to consider when choosing a fuel-powered tool for your homestead.

When choosing a fuel, you need to consider if you want something that is widely available, inexpensive, has a short shelf life due to volatility or something that is more expensive with a long shelf life. If you’re not sure what to get, compare different kinds of fuel to find one that meets your needs.

Detailed below are nine of the most common and important fuels that you may need in your stockpile.

Biodiesel offers many interesting advantages for preppers.

Biodiesel is a form of diesel engine fuel that is created from plant and animal matter. This kind of fuel is produced through a chemical reaction of lipids, like animal fat or plant oil, interacting with a type of alcohol.

The process results in an ester, either methyl ethyl or propyl. Soybean oil, vegetable oil and animal tallow are some of the most common components used for the creation of biodiesel.

Note that only specialty engines can run on pure biodiesel. You can make a usable biodiesel fuel mixture by combining a large quantity of biodiesel with a smaller quantity of standard diesel fuel.

While efficient, biodiesel has one major shortcoming compared to standard types of diesel.

The organic compounds in biodiesel are vulnerable to degradation by different forms of microscopic life that will consume it. This means that without specialty storage procedures and additives, biodiesel won’t last as long as standard diesel fuels.

Modern diesel fuel isn’t a specific formulation of petroleum fuel, but it classifies any liquid fuel specifically for use in a diesel or compression ignition engine.

Unlike gasoline, diesel fuel is not as energetic. Commercial diesel fuel is significantly more stable over time, but it does struggle in certain conditions, such as very cold weather.

Like gasoline, modern diesel fuels come with more additives that have slightly reduced their previously long shelf life.

Despite these disadvantages, diesel is a great option for long-term storage compared to gasoline.

When storing diesel fuel, be very cautious of low temperatures which can lead to jelling of the fuel. This can make diesel unusable until temperatures have raised enough to return the fuel to its liquid state.

Gasoline is the most common petroleum-derived liquid fuel that powers internal combustion engines. Gasoline is abundant, comparatively affordable and provides plenty of power for almost any application requiring an engine. However, its volatility as a liquid and vapor requires safe storage practices.

Gasoline also has issues when it comes to long-term storage. The fuel isn’t pure in its commercial form but a combination of multiple hydrocarbons.

Stored correctly in the right container, ethanol-free gasoline will last at least six months to one year before its component compounds separate enough to render the gasoline useless. Note that it’s best to store gasoline in an approved fuel can or tank.

Fire codes typically restrict gas storage to no more than 25 gallons, so keep gas in containers of at least five gallons or less. Leave some room to allow for expansion and close all gasoline containers tightly.

Straight gasoline that has no ethanol can last between one year to one and a half years with a stabilizer additive.

Do not attempt to run an engine with gasoline that has gone bad because it can cause significant malfunctions or destroy the engine.

If you are using a car or tool that runs on gasoline, rotate the fuel in your stockpile regularly. You can also recondition old gas on your own if you don’t want your supply to go bad. (Related: Prepping before SHTF: How to store fuel properly.)

Kerosene is another petroleum-derived hydrocarbon-based fuel often used for household and outdoor purposes, like lamp or stove fuel. Kerosene is highly flammable.

But kerosene operating at high efficiency in a lamp will produce a considerably clear, bright light. Additionally, portable heaters fueled by kerosene can easily heat and dry space, making it a good choice for preppers.

Although kerosene is more expensive, it’s easy to store and has a long shelf life. When stored in a container that minimizes airspace and prevents the formation of condensation, kerosene can last between two to five years.


Paper and cardboard are some of the most common kinds of packaging. Since both are paper products derived from wood, they can be burned in the same way that wood is.

Compared to wood fuel, paper and cardboard products will burn quickly and brightly so regular refueling is required to keep a fire going.

Propane is often used as fuel for backyard grills, but when SHTF it is a good option for your stockpile.

Liquid propane is the third most commonly used fuel for vehicles worldwide and it comes in right behind gasoline and diesel. Propane can be used to power buses, full-sized cars, power tools and personal heaters.

This versatile fuel is easy to transport, safe when kept in an appropriate and inspected pressure vessel and easy to use. Propane is also relatively affordable, costing about $2.50 per gallon at retail and $2.00 per gallon on average for home delivery.

Unlike other liquid fuels, propane comes with unique hazards.

Propane is a liquid when under considerable pressure, but its low boiling point means it will turn into a gas immediately upon release into the atmosphere. However, propane is heavier than air and the explosive vapor will sink down close to the ground or floor, where it poses an asphyxiation hazard.

Propane can also explode when a leaking propane cylinder is kept near a pilot light or other source of flame or spark.

When stored in the right container and inspected regularly, propane will last for at least 30 years even with no additives.

Sterno tabs/Gel

Sterno is a brand of jellied or solidified alcohol-based fuels. You might see them in tiny tins used to heat food on a buffet table.

Sterno fuel burns extremely hot and cleanly, with some varieties producing intense heat with no visible flame and hardly any smoke. Sterno is a great option if you’re looking for fuel that is readily available, stable, easy to use and suitable for indoor applications. Sterno is reasonably affordable and perfect for camping or hiking.

Note that typical Sterno cans are not insulated and the steel cans themselves will become extremely hot in use. The cans may be a secondary fire hazard if not set on a flat surface or if the ground is not cleared of debris.

Let the can cool down completely before putting it away.

White gas

White gas or “camp gas,” is a naphtha-based petroleum fuel composed of light hydrotreated distillates. This type of fuel is often used to power portable lanterns and camping stoves.

White gas is readily available, affordable, efficient and a popular choice for lanterns and camping stoves. But unlike other fuels, white gas is very limited in its usefulness.

White gas has similar flammability to gasoline, but the former has a very long shelf life. When stored unopened, white gas can last as long as five to seven years and up to two years when stored after being opened.

Note that white gas can rust metal containers, even the metal containers it is sold in. When stockpiling white gas, regularly inspect containers for any signs of rusting and either dispose of it or use it quickly.

Wood is one of the most basic and fundamental solid fuels. Unlike the other fuels in this list, wood is unique because it requires the least amount of processing, special skills or industry to produce.

Wood that is stockpiled for firewood should be processed into appropriate lengths and split into smaller pieces to maximize efficiency and for rapid drying. Drying or seasoning most hardwoods is a process that takes several months and this should be accounted for if you’re stocking up for oncoming cold weather.

Wood and seasoned firewood are vulnerable to elemental threats like wood-eating parasites and a variety of fungi or molds that will rapidly decay wood. Make the necessary preparations to protect your wood stockpile from these threats.

Before SHTF, stock up on the necessary fuels for your tools and vehicles and plan for long-term storage accordingly to extend their shelf life.

Watch the video below to learn how to use wood to fuel a generator.

This video is from the .

More related stories:

This content was originally published here.